Ferrari Testarossa is close to be finished, so it's time to start another project. This time the choice fell on the rally car - Ford Fiesta S2000. The car debuted at the 78th Monte Carlo Rally in 2010, in which the M-Sport factory team was represented by two drivers - Mikko Hirvonen and Julien Maurii. Mikko Hirvonen and his pilot Jarmo Lehtinen eventually won the rally. The car from excatly this rally, driven by Hirvonen was released Belgian company Belkits.
The set comes from 2012 and is the second kit released by Belkits. After a glimpse the model looks really good. The details are reproduced well and the decals look very good too. I will be able to write about fitting as soon as I start the build. In the box, in addition to a large number of sprues and separately packed body, you can find 2 sets of tires (asphalt + gravel), rubber mud flaps, material for belts, photo-etched parts of belts, hood buckles and spare wheel buckles. You can check it in the pictures below.
I started working with the body preparation. The panel lines, although very detailed, are quite shallow, so I started to deepen them.
Belkits unfortunately did not make effort enough and the door handles were cast with the whole body as a single solid without a fingers hole. I couldn't resist to correct this imperfection. This kit was their second release, in the next ones it has already been improved and the door handles are cast as the separate parts.
In addition to the panel lines, I also deepened holes for rally jack stands.
Fitting of the front wheel arches wasn't the best. The gaps between the bumper were definitely too large, so I completely filled them with a putty and cut the panel lines again by myself.
Body has been covered with white primer Mr Surfacer 1500 thinned 1:2. The coating came out really smooth.
I decided to experiment and at this stage, before applying the base coat, I put the panel liner from Tamiya into the panel lines. I also added the missing rear bumper rivets.
As a base coat, I used LP-2 laquer paint from Tamiya. This is my first contact with the LP series and I am really happy with it. I thinned 1:2, painting was really great. The paint covered very well, there were no problems with splashing. After 24 hours, the paint was hard enough that I began to sand out the places where the inclusions appeared and started to put the decals on.
The wheel arches gave me a little trouble, where the decals had to be bent in several planes. I also had a bit of fun with the drilled holes in the door handles, because the manufacturer did not foresee such modifications and in those places there was no blue decals supplied. I dealt with the problem by cutting off a half-millimeter strip from the side blue decals.
I applied LP-9 varnish from Tamiya. In total, I put about 8 layers, more than half of which were very dry. While putting wet layers, bubbles I found out under some bubbles under the decals, but surprisingly, they completely disappeared after the varnish dried. I planned to start sanding after a week of curing, but due to lack of time, the body had to wait another week longer. For sanding, I used 5000, 6000, 8000 papers (in more demanding places I started with 3000 paper). I managed to achieve what I planned, which is to completely get rid of the difference in the thickness of the varnish on the edges of the decals. Then I polished the whole with the set three Tamiya compounds.
The next step was to prepare the windows. The set included masks, which made it possible to precisely apply the paint. The windshield, along with the rear and side windows is a one piece that fits perfectly in its place. Installation is 'click', but I secured the connection with the glue just in case.
Then I put on all the other decals. I admit that I made a mistake with the rear spoiler - in a real rally car the Eibach and Sparco stickers were switched. I found it after the fact, but decided to leave it as it is.
The additional brake light was only slightly marked on the tailgate by the producer, so I added a glass imitation made from a piece of transparent material. Then the front and rear lights fell into place.
I decided to install the antennas, mirrors, bonnet clips and all other delicate elements after mounting the chassis, so as not to damage them while mounting.
It's time to play with the chassis. I started the work from sticking the central tunnel with thermal insulation imitation. For this purpose, I used a candy wrapper.
I used the same material to cover the exhaust.
Author | Matiz